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Gem Chart for Costume Jewellery

Diamond Simulants

The high price of gem-grade diamonds, as well as significant ethical concerns of the diamond trade,[1] have created a large demand for materials with similar gemological characteristics, known as diamond simulants or imitations or cubic zirconia. Simulants are distinct from synthetic diamond, which unlike simulants is actual diamond, and therefore has the same material properties as natural diamond. Enhanced diamonds are also excluded from this definition.

A diamond simulant may be artificial, natural, or in some cases a combination thereof. While their material properties depart markedly from those of diamond, simulants have certain desired characteristics—such as dispersion and hardness—which lend themselves to imitation. Trained gemologists with appropriate equipment are able to distinguish natural and synthetic diamonds from all diamond simulants, primarily by visual inspection.

The most common diamond simulants are high-leaded glass (i.e., rhinestones) and cubic zirconia (CZ), both artificial materials. A number of other artificial materials, such as strontium titanate and synthetic rutile have been developed since the mid 1950s, but these are no longer in common use. Introduced at the end of the 20th century, the lab grown product moissanite has gained popularity as an alternative to diamond.

Diamond has been imitated by artificial materials for hundreds of years: advances in technology have seen the development of increasingly better simulants with properties ever nearer those of diamond. Although most of these simulants were characteristic of a certain time period, their large production volumes ensured that all continue to be encountered with varying frequency in jewelry of the present. Nearly all were first conceived for intended use in high technology, such as active laser mediums, varistors, and bubble memory. Due to their limited present supply, collectors may pay a premium for the older types.

Diamond simulants and their gemological properties

Material Formula Refractive index(es) 589.3nm Dispersion 431-687nm Hardness (Mohs' scale) Density (g/cm3) Thermal Cond. State of the Art
Diamond C 2.417 0.044 10 3.52 Excellent 1476-
Glasses Silica with Pb, Al & or T1 -1.6 >0.020 <6 2.4-4.2 Poor 1700-
White Sapphire Al2O3 1.762-1.770 0.018 9 3.97 Poor 1900-1947
Spinel MgO A12O3 1.727 0.020 8 -3.6 Poor 1920-1947
Rutile TiO2 2.62-2.9 0.33 -6 4.25 Poor 1947-1955
Strontium titanate SrTiO3 2.41 0.19 5.5 5.13 Poor 1955-1970
YAG Y3Ai5O12 1.83 0.028 8.25 4.54-4.65 Poor 1970-1975
GGG Gd3Ga5O12 1.97 0.045 7 7.02 Poor 1973-1975
Cubic Zirconia ZrO2 -2.2 -0.06 -8.3 -5.7 High 1976-
Moissanite SiC -2.648-2.691 -0.104 8.5-9.25 3.2 High 1998-
Quartz Silica -1.543-1.554
7- 2.50-2.65
Ancient


Stone Hardness
Moh's Scale
Refractive Index
"Brilliance"
Colour Dispersion
"Fire"
Alexandrite 81/2 1.74 - 1.75 0.015
Amethyst 7 1.54-1.55 0.013
Aquamarine 71/2 1.57-1.58 0.014
Chrysoberyl 81/2 1.74-1.75 0.015
Citrine 7 1.54-1.55 0.013
Carol 3 1.49-1.66
Demantoid Garnet 61/2 1.85-1.89 0.057
Diamond Simulant 10 2.42 0.044
Emerald 71/2 1.57-1.58 0.014
Garnet (Almandine) 71/2 1.76-1.83 0.024
Grossularite 7 1.79-1.81 0.027
Kunzite 7 1.66-1.67 0.017
Lapis Lazuli 51/2 1.50
Morganite 71/2 1.58-1.59 0.014
Nephrite 61/2 1.61-1.63
Opal 6 1.37-1.47
Peridot 61/2 1.64-1.69 0.020
Quartz 7 1.54-1.55 0.013
Ruby 9 1.76-1.77 0.018
Sapphire 9 1.76-1.77 0.018
Spessartite Garnet 7 1.79-1.81 0.027
Spinel 8 1.71-1.73 0.015
Tanzanite 61/2 1.69-1.70 0.030
Topaz 8 1.62-1.63 0.014
Tourmaline 71/2 1.62-1.64 0.017
Turquoise 6 1.61-1.65
Tsavorite Garnet 7 1.69-1.74 0.028
Zircon 71/2 1.93-1.98 0.039